Sewing Tips

Before cutting

Look at the fabric, identify the grainline, check the drape, and always allow a small safety margin before laying out your pattern.

Before sewing

Test on a scrap: needle, tension, stitch, and pressing. A few minutes of testing often prevent unpleasant surprises.

Before washing

Wash your fabric before sewing, especially natural or fluid materials. This anticipates shrinkage and helps create a longer-lasting garment.

Before you start

Well-prepared fabric is more pleasant to cut, easier to sew, and results in a cleaner finish. Even on a simple project, a few preparation steps can really make a difference.

Preparation

Wash fabric before sewing

We recommend washing your fabric before sewing, especially for natural materials such as cotton, linen, or viscose. Some materials may shrink slightly during the first wash.

Use a delicate cycle, low temperature, and avoid tumble drying if you have any doubts.

Cup

Find the grainline

Before placing your pattern, locate the grainline of the fabric. It usually runs parallel to the selvage. Following the grainline ensures the garment drapes better and prevents it from twisting after sewing or washing.

Minor defects

Coping with minor irregularities

Some upcycled fabrics may have small irregularities or minor, localized flaws. In most cases, these do not hinder sewing: simply identify them before cutting and intelligently place the pattern pieces.

Which needle should I use for a thin fabric?

For delicate fabrics like batiste, voile, muslin, or some lightweight viscoses, use a fine and new needle. A needle that is too large can mark the fabric or create small visible holes.

How to sew a flowing fabric?

Flowy fabrics can shift during cutting and sewing. Work on a flat surface, use more pins or clips, cut gently, and avoid pulling the fabric under the presser foot.

A slightly shorter stitch length can help achieve a more even seam.

How to prevent fabric from fraying?

Some fabrics fray more than others. You can serge the edges with a zigzag stitch, use an overlocker if you have one, or plan for French seams for a clean finish, especially on thin or sheer fabrics.

Does the fabric need to be ironed again?

Yes, ironing helps a lot, but it must be adapted to the fabric. Always start at a moderate temperature and test on a scrap piece. For delicate fabrics, use a pressing cloth or iron on the wrong side.

Which stitch should I choose on the machine?

For most woven fabrics, a classic straight stitch works well. On fine fabrics, a slightly shorter stitch may be neater. On fabrics with elastane, use a stretch stitch or a slight zigzag instead.

What to do if my machine skips stitches?

Start by changing your needle: a worn or ill-suited needle is often the cause. Then check the threading, thread tension, and do a test on a scrap of the same fabric.

The Blankabric council

Before cutting your fabric, take a few minutes to observe it in the light: drape, transparency, grain, and any irregularities. This is the best way to get the most out of your fabric.