Sewing guide
Subject Index
Cotton, viscose, linen, polyester, voile, batiste or satin: each material has its own drape, feel, and uses. This guide will help you choose the right fabric for your sewing project.
Soft, crisp, fluid, springy, smooth, or structured: the feel helps you imagine the garment's final drape.
The higher the fabric weight, the denser, more opaque, or more structured the fabric generally is.
White and ecru fabrics can be more or less transparent depending on the material, weave, and thickness.
Cotton Natural, comfortable, and versatile.
Cotton is a pleasant fabric to wear, breathable, and easy to sew. Depending on its weave, it can be light and thin like a batiste, crisper like a poplin, or more structured like a canvas.
Blouses, shirts, dresses, linings, accessories, light linen and everyday projects.
Easy to cut and sew. The drape depends heavily on the weave and weight.
Gentle wash recommended before sewing to anticipate any shrinkage.
For an easy project, start with poplin, fine canvas, or cotton batiste.
Viscose Fluid, soft, and ideal for supple garments.
Viscose is appreciated for its fluid drape and pleasant feel. It moves well with the body and often gives a light, elegant, and feminine look.
Flowing dresses, skirts, blouses, loose-fitting trousers, shirts, and garments with movement.
More slippery than cotton, it requires a little more precision when cutting. Good pinning or cutting weights can help.
Gentle wash recommended. Viscose may shrink slightly after the first wash: pre-wash recommended.
If you're a beginner, choose a viscose with a little body rather than a very fine or slippery one.
Linen Natural, textured, and lively.
Linen is a natural material with a raw charm, recognizable by its slightly irregular appearance. It breathes well, develops a patina over time, and offers an authentic look.
Shirts, summer dresses, loose trousers, light jackets, household linen and natural fabrics.
It can crease easily, which is part of its style. Depending on its weight, it can be supple or more structured.
Pre-wash recommended. Gentle wash, natural drying and ironing on slightly damp fabric if needed.
White or off-white linen can be slightly transparent: remember to adapt your project or plan for a lining.
Polyester Durable, practical and very variable depending on the weave.
Polyester is a strong, synthetic fiber, often easy to care for. It can mimic various finishes: voile, satin, crepe, taffeta, muslin, or more structured canvas.
Linings, dresses, blouses, accessories, fluid pieces, decorative fabrics, and creations requiring little maintenance.
It generally doesn't wrinkle much. Some polyesters can be slippery or sensitive to iron heat.
Gentle wash and low-temperature ironing. Always test the heat on a scrap piece if possible.
Look especially at the weave and the weight: a thin and fluid polyester will be nothing like a denser polyester canvas.
Mixtures Hybrid compositions to combine several qualities.
Blended fabrics combine several fibers to achieve a particular result: more suppleness, more hold, less creasing, elasticity, or a different feel.
Everything depends on the composition: everyday clothing, trousers, blouses, dresses, light jackets, linings or accessories.
The behavior depends on the predominant fiber, weave, and weight. A cotton blend may remain easy to sew, while a viscose blend may be more fluid.
Choose the gentlest care method among the fibers present. If in doubt, gentle wash and low temperature.
On Blankabric, remember to read the product sheet: the composition, width, and weight already provide many clues.
Understanding GSM
Grammage is expressed in g/m². A fabric around 50 to 90 g/m² is generally lightweight, sometimes transparent. Between 100 and 170 g/m², it is often suitable for blouses, dresses, or shirts. Above that, the fabric becomes denser, with more body.
What about the white fabrics?
White, ivory, cream, or ecru fabrics can be more or less transparent. For clothing, remember to check the fabric weight, weave, and intended use. A lining may be useful for close-fitting garments or very lightweight materials.