Fabric width is measured from one selvage to the other. It affects how pattern pieces can be laid out and may therefore change the amount of fabric you need. To prepare your project without surprises, distinguish the total width from the width that can actually be used, then follow the pattern instructions and the fabric product details. You cannot work out a universal yardage amount from fabric width alone: the cutting layout, prints and characteristics of the fabric also matter.
Fabric width, selvages and usable width: three things to distinguish
Fabric width is the measurement across the fabric when it is laid flat. It runs across the grain, from one edge to the other. The two finished edges along the sides are the selvages. They help you identify the width, but they are not necessarily intended to be included in sewn pieces: their appearance or drape may differ from the rest of the fabric.
So the total width given in a product description does not always mean that the entire width can be used for cutting. Usable width is the area available after excluding the selvages or a border that is unsuitable for your project, if necessary. Do not subtract an arbitrary amount: inspect the fabric itself or check whether the product details specify a usable width. If in doubt, ask for information about that specific fabric before calculating your cut.
- Fabric width: the distance from one selvage to the other.
- Selvages: the fabric’s lengthwise edges, which should be distinguished from the usable area.
- Usable width: the area actually available for laying out pattern pieces.
Why fabric width changes the cutting layout
A sewing pattern usually includes cutting instructions, sometimes as a diagram, for one or more fabric widths. The layout shows how to orient the pieces and position them in relation to one another. A greater usable width may allow some pieces to be placed side by side; a narrower width may mean arranging them differently. The yardage required then depends on the size you choose, the number of pieces and the layout shown.
First, check the fabric width specified for the layout included with your pattern. If the width of your fabric does not match the diagram, do not automatically use the same yardage: lay out the pieces again, observing the grainline, folds and cutting instructions. If the pattern offers several layouts, choose the one that best matches your fabric’s usable width. If there is a difference or the pieces are complex, it is best to check the layout before ordering or cutting.
Compare two fabrics without confusing width and fibre content
Imagine you are choosing between two fabric listings for the same pattern. One is for a cotton-containing fabric; the other is for poplin. Category names alone are not enough to determine which one will work or how much to buy: fibre content and characteristics can vary from one product to another. Compare the information actually given for each fabric, including its width, then check it against the pattern’s cutting layout.
For example, if listing A gives the total width and listing B specifies a different usable width, do not simply compare the figures as though they mean the same thing. Check what is included in each measurement, then work out the space needed for the pattern pieces according to the layout. If the two listings do not provide the same level of detail, do not assume their widths are directly comparable: ask for clarification or choose the fabric whose details let you check the layout. The right choice depends on the pattern, the usable width and the properties you want for your project—not just the fabric name.
To explore a range of fibre contents and fabric constructions, browse the cotton fabrics and poplin selections. Assess each product using its own listing.
Plan for prints, fabric direction and pattern matching
A cutting layout is not always just a matter of width. With a directional print, you may need to place all the pieces facing the same way. A print that needs pattern matching may require you to align the design across different pieces. In both cases, the layout may use more fabric than it would for a fabric with no directional or matching requirements. The effect depends on the print and the pattern: do not allow the same extra amount for every project.
Also check any information provided about the fabric’s direction, feel, drape or structure. Do not infer these properties from the fibre content or category name alone. For poplin, as for any other fabric, check the fibre content and details of the specific product. The pattern’s cutting instructions are the starting point; adapt them only to account for documented characteristics.
Checklist before calculating yardage and cutting
Before confirming your fabric choice, gather the information from the pattern and product listing. If something is missing—usable width, care instructions or shrinkage information—do not replace it with a general rule. Check with the seller or wait until you have the information before deciding. Then calculate the dimensions of the fabric to order using a layout suited to your size and chosen fabric.
- Note your pattern size and the recommended yardage for the specified fabric width.
- Identify the selvages and check whether the listing gives the total width or usable width.
- Compare this width with the cutting layout and arrange the pieces in the correct direction.
- Identify any directional prints or pattern matching requirements and adjust the layout for your project.
- Read the fabric care instructions before deciding whether to prewash; do not assume universal shrinkage or temperature guidelines.
- Check the cutting, needle and temperature recommendations for the pattern and fabric instead of inferring them from fibre content alone.
- Make sure the fabric you choose covers the actual cutting layout, not a calculation based only on the stated width.
Frequently asked questions
Are fabric width and usable width the same thing?
Not necessarily. Fabric width is the distance from one selvage to the other. Usable width is the area available for laying out the pieces after excluding the selvages or an area unsuitable for cutting, if necessary. Check the product details for the specific fabric.
How do I know how much fabric to buy?
Follow the yardage recommendation and cutting layout for the pattern in your size and the fabric width. If the usable width differs from the one specified, lay out the pieces again. Also account for pattern matching or print direction where applicable.
Should I always prewash fabric before cutting?
There is no universal rule: check the fabric care instructions and the pattern instructions. They will help you decide whether prewashing is suitable and which settings are recommended for that specific fabric. Do not assume that all fabrics shrink by the same amount or can be washed at the same temperature.