Viscose fabric: choose the right drape for a dress, blouse, or pants
Viscose is often sought after for garments that move with the body. However, two pieces containing this fiber can have very different drapes. A viscose canvas, crepe, or satin does not offer the same surface, and a blend can alter their behavior. For your project, always associate the composition with indications of fluidity, transparency, and elasticity.
Which viscose for a flowing dress or pants?
A gathered dress, a flowing skirt, and wide pants require a fabric that drapes without creating too stiff a volume. Look at the fluidity of the fabric, but also its opacity: a fabric suitable for a layered blouse may not be sufficient for pants worn without a lining. For a fitted dress, check the ease allowed in the pattern. A woven viscose without elasticity does not replace a stretch knit, even if its touch seems soft.
How to cut and sew viscose?
Lay the fabric completely flat to prevent any hanging part from pulling on the pattern pieces. If the fabric slips, work in small areas and secure the pieces without stretching the fabric. Cutting in a single layer can facilitate the placement of a print; remember to flip the pieces that need to be cut in mirror image. Test a needle suitable for the fabric's fineness, the thread tension, and the edge finishing on a scrap. For a hem, first let the garment stabilize on a hanger if its cut and material require it.
Plan preparation before the first cut
Some viscose fabrics may change dimensions during care. Follow the instructions on the label and prepare the fabric using a compatible method before cutting the final pieces. Do not choose a washing or ironing temperature based solely on the fiber name: blends, prints, and finishes may require different precautions.
Is viscose necessarily transparent?
No. Transparency depends on the construction, density, and color of the fabric. Compare the opacity indications, then check the appearance in light. For a light dress or skirt, plan for a lining compatible with the desired drape if necessary.