Fabrics with Elastane

Fabrics with elastane: matching the fabric to the pattern

Elastane is part of the composition of very different fabrics: a slightly stretchy woven fabric and a knit intended for a close-fitting garment are not interchangeable. The percentage of this fiber is a guideline, but it does not solely indicate the stretch rate of the fabric.

Check the stretch and recovery

Identify the direction in which the fabric stretches and compare it to the pattern requirements. For a pattern requiring a specific percentage, measure a portion of the fabric at rest and then stretched, without forcing it to the point of distortion. Also observe its ability to return to its original length: this behavior matters for knees, elbows, and fitted garments.

Maintain elasticity at the seams

Choose a needle and stitch suitable for the fabric construction. Make a test assembly, stretch it gently, and check that the thread moves with the fabric. Avoid pulling on the pieces while sewing; uneven feeding can create ripples. Reinforced areas, such as a zipper or waistband, must remain compatible with the pattern assembly.

Can I replace a non-stretch fabric with a fabric containing elastane?

It depends on the pattern and its ease. Check the pattern recommendations and conduct a test: the mere presence of elastane does not guarantee that the cut will maintain the intended result.